I spent three weeks in Cali, in total. I didn’t leave for home on the 5th of February as planned; for reasons I can’t be bothered to get into (I’m a knob), I moved my flight home back a week, to the 12th of February out of Bogota.
Continue readingtravel writing
Colombia | Dancehall
I was nervous to visit Cali for a bunch of reasons.
Continue readingColombia | Darkness
When evening fell on our first day in the jungle, it was time for the night hike.
Continue readingColombia | Into The Jungle
Our little boat moored one hour upriver from Leticia. The opposite bank of the river is Peru, and that’s where we climbed ashore. From the boat, we had to climb a muddy series of ladders to get up the bank. Alain (the Goblin) told us this was because the river, in its eternal ebbs and flows, was currently eroding this bank and depositing the silt on the other side; one collapses, the other widens into a new sandbar. With heavy rains recently, each day new great chunks of the bank were crumbling into the river, taking with them entire trees, and eventually, people’s homes.
Continue readingColombia | Tales From The River
I was nervous when I woke up. I lay on my bunk and thought about the ten thousand things that might go awry in the jungle. Bites, parasites, broken bones, falling branches, plus a thousand other horrors I couldn’t even fully form drifted through my mind. When I’m scared I always tell myself the same thing: this is what an adventure feels like. This is part of it. You can never be sure of what will happen. Do it anyway.
Continue readingColombia | Nipping Across The Border
On my last day in Cartagena I was out having breakfast with my friend Elo in a square splashed with warm Caribbean colour. We were sitting in the sweltering shade outside a cafe, and had just finished our food when a young American man came and sat at the table beside us with a sigh.
Continue readingColombia | A Mystery In The Sand
A hungover-looking Juan picked me up in the jeep after a shower and breakfast (rice, arepas, plantain) and we drove deeper into the desert. The first day of the tour was, to be sincere, a load of old dicks. The second day was much better. Well, better might not be the word. Mystifying is more like it.
Continue readingColombia | I Always Wanted To Go To The Desert But It Turns Out The Desert Is Weird
The morning after my mammoth jungle hike, I had a big breakfast and left Journey Hostel. I was headed to the desert.
Continue readingColombia | Jungle Beasts
I left Minca after three tranquil nights in the hills and took a bus into Santa Marta. I met a nice Israeli guy on the ride there – don’t remember his name unfortunately – and then I hopped on a second bus to Journey Hostel, a place I’d been recommended several times. It’s a fancy hillside hostel with an infinity pool, and it sits just outside Parque Tayrona – the reason I was there.
Continue readingColombia | Sandflies
After New Year’s Eve in Medellin, I decided to stop being a melancholy germ and get on with having a nice time. To recharge myself socially I booked an AirBnB for four nights, and enjoyed the calm and quiet and the luxury of my own space, my own bathroom, and a big bed I could lie on in my pants and vape endlessly. Four days of this and I was ready to hit the road again.
Continue reading